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Japanese Whisky: The Vanishing Spirit
Japanese Whisky: The Vanishing Spirit
The whisky industry is as much a numbers game as it is one entirely ‘controlled’ by chance. And when it comes to a well-aged statement drop, the right production numbers are anyone’s guess. Over-produced, and you’re left with excess supply that could take years to recover from. Under produce, and surging demand and, consequently, dwindling mature stock leaves distillers with their hands tied. It’s a gamble, to say the least. And no one knows this better than the Japanese Whisky producers. The barrel lid has been flipped on the Japanese whisky industry and a growing global thirst is sucking its whisky well dry.
Rise of Japanese Whisky
While the eastern spirit has been in the national consciousness for almost a century – 2015 marks the 92nd year of Japanese whisky making – there a few things have helped it maintain momentum. Japanese mini-drama ‘Massan’ is the love story of Masataka Taketsuru, one of the godfather’s of whisky, and his Scottish wife. A favorite amongst housewives, the morning show also piqued their interest in whisky.
In 2014, Nikka reported a 50 per cent increase in Japanese whisky sales just three months after the show’s launch. But it’s not surprising. One of the oldest orders at the bar, the Whisky Highball, has been a favorite amongst Japanese imbibers for decades. That’s whisky, soda and ice cubes in a tall glass.
While demand in the west came a few years shy of Japanese housewives developing a taste for the humble whisky and soda, the figures lead you to believe otherwise. In 2014, Nikka Whisky saw European trade soar by 45%. That same year Whisky expert Jim Murray dubbing Yamazaki distillery’s Single Malt Sherry Cask from 2013 the “best in the world” caused a spike in popularity and then in price. Modest but proud, the wins continued with Suntory whiskies including Hibiki and Hakushu, taking home 11 Golds at the International Spirits Challenge. Then Suntory got the title of the 2015 Distiller of the Year.
It seems after almost ten decades of distilling the silky brown spirit; Japan has finally found its place in the big league. But surprising to most, it was never really its intention. Dwindling interest at home forced the country’s whisky makers to look beyond their borders. Once skepticism and suspicions of the ‘knock-off Scotch’ alternative dissipated, the rest of the world was ready to sip from the fountain.
Today, Japan is – once again – beating someone else at their own game. See: US Baseball and now Scotch whisky. But as demand far exceeds supply, it cannot keep up. Where once Japanese whisky was known to reach an age of double figures – now anything over 12 years is hard to find. Chasing time, distillers struggling to jump over the age hurdle are instead releasing non-age statement whiskies of similar tastes.
A subtle mix of honey and stone fruit, Hibiki Japanese Harmony, is a blend of malt and grain whiskies, with a flavor that generously tips its hat to Hibiki 12-year-old. Only difference? The Harmony bottling isn’t of a mature age. In a shocking move, Nikka Whisky has completely discontinued much of its aged stock, hoping the introduction of new non-age-statement types like Taketsuru Pure Malt and the well-liked Nikka Coffey Grain ($70) will keep fans happy.
But others believe that age is nothing but a number. And reactive whisky producers are emphasizing other elements of the process that affect taste and value. “Now the industry has new mantras: It’s all about the quality of the wood being used, or it’s all about the master distiller’s secrets,” said Ian Buxton, the Scotch expert and author of “101 Legendary Whiskies.”
White Oak Distillery, one of the smallest in Japan, is renowned for its curious practices with non-age statement tipples, including letting the whisky set in ex-bourbon, sherry, wine, and shochu barrels. The resulting taste is both bold and smooth, reminding you of bourbon. Akashi White Oak is an affordable, easy-to-drink blend, with a slightly peaty aftertaste; and for something a little stronger? Try the smoky Akashi single malt?
The focus on the younger whiskies is great news for people who understand that older doesn’t always mean better. But if you like your whisky a little wiser, there are ways to track it down.
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